Although you’ve probably never heard of it, Jeju is a more popular destination than
Rome and Barcelona. And this is no accident.

"Hawaii of the Orient”, “Emerald Island”, "Korea’s Tangerine Garden”, “Honeymoon
Island”, "Female Divers Island": the smallest Korean province has nearly a dozen
nicknames. In 2011 it was even declared one of the new seven wonders of the world,
and shortly before that it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage
Monument. Over 10 million tourists visit it each year – a lot more than those in
Barcelona or Rome. Yet, there’s a serious chance that you’ve never heard about Jeju
Island. Just because the vast majority of these 10 million people are Korean.

ONLY AN HOUR’S FLIGHT AWAY from Seoul’s ultra-modern, almost space-like
airport to to idyllic view out the window in Jeju. A slice of paradise where sea, sky and
trees change their colour throughout the day. Winds constantly change their
direction, adding some special mysticism to pristine nature.

The dormant Halla volcano, rising 1,950 metres above sea level and convincingly
winning the race for South Korea’s highest mountain, is also responsible for the
unique nature. It’s surrounded by 360 smaller volcanoes, numerous caves, strange
rock formations, lakes, forests and parks, coloured in royal azaleas cyclamen purple,
and last, but not least, endless tangerine plantations.

IN THE PAST JEJU USED TO BE a place of exile for dignitaries who had sinned;
today it’s a favourite spot for honeymoons or the inevitable golfers. Over 100
museums, modern hotels, eco trails and parks, organized sailing boat rides and
numerous festivals and traditional restaurants are an additional attraction for the
visitors.

Nearly half a million people live on the island. They’re radiant and very open people.
They’re proud of the uniqueness of their homeland, their dialect and the ability to
achieve everything with hard work and patience. Only three things are missing on this
island, our beautiful guide and fellow journalist Sanghee Hong told me: there are no
doors, no thieves and no poor people. There are no doors because nobody steals.
And no one steals because nature is generous, climate is mild, people are hard-
working and everyone lives well.

ANOTHER SAYING LOCALS WELCOME US WITH, states that Jeju has three
treasures: rocks, wind and women. The rocks are from the abundant black volcanic
lava, winds are really strong to the delight of surfers, and women… they’re beautiful
and brave. What other way to define the unique traditional livehood of the female
divers, placed under the auspices of UNESCO?

According to legend, this profession
was established when a girl saved a sea turtle washed up on the shore and it, in turn,
gave it with a magical flower to protect her against danger. Thus, the Haenyeo
women, looking for a living on the seabed, appeared. To this day, they enter the
water without breathing apparatus, with a knife in hand and huge baskets to harvest
seafood. At night, their sad songs around the fire can be heard in the Haenyeo
Museum, where, through performances and expositions their hard life is recreated.

There are more than 100 fishing villages with women divers. The girls in these
families begin their training when they’re 7-8 years-old, guided by their grandmothers
who continue diving even after the age of 80.

ANOTHER SYMBOL OF THE ISLAND ARE the stone old men Tol Hareubangs,
carved from volcanic rock. In the past they were placed outside settlement gates and
important buildings for protection against misfortune. These days, you can find their
replicas everywhere, and buy them as souvenirs from a street vendor. Tradition says
that newlyweds who want to conceive a son, should touch the old man’s nose, and
his mouth – if they if they want a daughter.

Apart from everything else, Jeju is also Korea’s tangerine garden. The fruit is grown
throughout the year – outdoors or in greenhouses. You’ll feel tangerine scent in many
of the traditional pastries, sweets, liquors and wines.

OFTEN DESCRIBED AS ONE of the most beautiful parks in the world, the “Bonsai
Garden” is a human creation, demonstrating the proverbial Korean diligence and
careful attitude towards nature. 40 people are employed there, and more than half a
million tourists visit it annually. Its founder is Sung Bum-Young. I had the amazing
opportunity to drink tea with this legendary person and learn his history. Born in 1939
into a poor family, his parents couldn’t afford to provide for his education and he
joined the army, later on he graduated and set up his own small business. In 1963 he
bought some land on Jeju Island. The terrain was covered with stones, there was no
running water, no electricity. When he began creating the garden, his neighbours
thought he was crazy. Recently, he’s been paid a visit by Chinese leader Hu Jintao
and the park has been turned into an especially popular attraction for Chinese
tourists.

For the Bulgarian group Bum opened the doors of the Secret Garden – his
private residence. “The garden requires all my attention, I’m working from dawn till
dusk and I’m happy when people come from far away to feel we’re one with nature",
one of South Korea’s most famous people told us at parting and added "See you
soon", not „Goodbye”. He knew we would be back. And that Jeju wouldn’t stop luring
us with legends, its beauty and the friends we leave there. Still, what stands between
then and the new meeting, is patience, which, according to Koreans, precedes each
good thing in life.


What to see:

  • Jeju National Museum – exhibits are situated in halls and outdoors. There’s also a
    kids area, where children can explore history through a variety of interactive games (
    www.Jeju.museum.go.kr)
  • Botanic garden with over 1700 plant species.
  •  Horse show with amazing acrobatic tricks by Mongolian artists, recreating legends
    of Genghis Khan.
  •  Teddy Bear Museum – offers entertainment for all ages.
  •  Aeronautics Museum – from the first time man looked at the stars to Star Wars (www.jdc-jam.com)
  • МTea Museum – don’t miss the opportunity to taste tea ice cream.
  •  Sex and Health Museum – original sculptures which can at least entertain you.
    What’s more, laughter is the best medicine, Koreans also say.
  •  Female Divers Museum – you can see a recreated Haenyeo settlemet, a
    documentary on their life and a music show, dedicated to their customs. (
    www.haenyeo.go.kr)

 

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